For some the closure of the circle ... for someone else is the beginning of the circular design!
But ... , Maybe not ... for some the circle has not closed yet ... for someone else and the design of the circle had already started!
It 's the second season of climbing after my ri_inizio climbing, although I really can (and last) to climb for the pleasure of it ... sometimes I feel the need for a confrontation with myself and with my past , ghosts included.
's so I hear Eva and offer three choices "Alternative" for Saturday, in a way that I would like Presolana, one Albigna and one in Val di Mello.
But I've already decided ... I need the comparison with the past ... but also the climbing partner must be convinced, on a street like that "do not bring anyone," I go there with a friend that I trust ... in which a companion can see in his eyes at the end of the day my own happiness, even if the result of feelings and motivations different from mine.
Polimagò I climb in 1982 ... too early, too little preparation (especially head), too little information about the kind of way ... moral done, but badly, in fact a psychological blow of which I remember very little or nothing, only the bad feelings.
Since then it has a way that I always feared (and avoided) ... it was time to close the circle!
Eva did not have anything close, indeed, perhaps the circle is beginning to draw now ... although a small account with a shot of the rising moon ....
trust to Eve, it cost me a lot but I do it for honest, my fears on the way (I'm afraid words) ... I say also (falsely) that arrived in the Valley all vanish there are no problems.
The approach proceeds as usual, talk, laugh, it very happily ... attack two strings before us ... clearly all about the Moon.
the first string of three (probably driving and two foreign customers) reserve a show like "particular" that the French couple who follow Polimagò asks me about ... He is very strong, we will make the street behind them with no problems, other three strings are behind us on the Moon.
Too many people, I do not feel sufficiently concentrated ... start on the first shot of the moon, I'm nervous, too, I make a mistake, will be reset ... Parto
on fire the first shot of crack Polimagò, fatigue is a strange step, split and then you have to move to the left with an imbalance, place a friend and go on out, the crack is out of size I can put only one other friend in mid-shot, stop! I have not scaled well ... I am not satisfied ... Eva arrives. Eva
is not the guy who gets scarrozza the mountains ... the shot of the door of heaven was already decided, if he wanted was his ... part in the fireplace and come crawling and puffing parked about ten feet without being able to protect V +, then you can use the blade with a string ... childbirth and I "crawling and puffing" arrival parked, on this way no shot will be trivial.
The next pitch was one of the "My Ghosts" ... This time I'm concentrating, fear disappears, use a little to shift your weight on your foot off the roof ... but all ok no problem.
Even the beautiful crack in the next shot is that Eva has no problems.
fifth shot ... and here the mystery of two bolts in the first 2 meters (we'll talk another time) ... musket the first (maybe it was not very ethical) as a reference to stop (it stops a few feet from a nail?) I can not understand how we can move ahead and to clip the second ... I travel quite a feet to right, step loooong delicate (in my opinion the single hardest of the street) is now the second side and under a lot of spit on me, go ahead and places a friend ... Hence the crack shot is wonderful, very hard and also continuous.
We both stop and look through the ... I knew it was one of the easiest shoots, there are no problems, it is only a matter of head!
I climb a few feet, and began referring to navigate down the vein .... the shot is wonderful, easy, no problem ... towards the end do a couple of looks to Eve, not too much, I do not want to see "the loop" of rope ... the crack of the Moon is there to three meters ... Eve is twenty-five meters ... the vein is fake, I get up a step and I move one meter, the crack is there a little more than a meter ... one meter of grip, but it was only then V ... I put my foot on a crystal, the load change and foot ... hand into the slot ....... is only V but fuck that nice trip! .... with one hand into the slot of the Rising Moon 28 years after the circle was closed! Arriva
Eve, calm, motivated, happy, happy .... Now the next three pitches were his .... and crack open an account later she also needs to close ... Eve real?
Polimagò I'm not afraid ... more but a doubt assails me .... but this circle is really closed?
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